Woke up late, had a quick breakfast.
We went to a little local hot spring bath, but it was closed
on Mondays. So we went straight to the metro station and made the now familiar
Xinbeitou -> Beitou -> Red Line trek, alighting near the Chiang-Kai-Shek
Memorial Hall. We walked straight from the station onto a giant plaza. On one
side was the monumental hall for the great revolutionary general and first
president of Taiwan, Chiang Kai-Shek. Facing it, a beautiful blue and white
series of arches topped with an ornate roof. Winnie explained that these arches
were analogous to the entrance arches at the Daoist temples we had seen—they
marked the boundary between the outside world and the sacred shrine inside.
On the other two sides were two grand theaters. We sat on
the stairs of one to drink our water, since it was forbidden to drink on the
skytrains, and chow down on some rice crackers. While we ate, we had a really
interesting conversation about the future of mathematics. Winnie wondered
whether there would be another renaissance in mathematics, comparable to
roughly the 1800s with Cauchy and Gauss and the formal foundations of calculus
and linear algebra (I don’t know enough history to know how localized the
renaissance was, but I would roughly say that before this period, formal
mathematics had gotten to geometry and algebra 2 (study of polynomials) and
afterwards, it had probability and calculus and linear algebra and group theory
and so on…
I was somewhat pessimistic because the simplest and most
powerful ideas are usually discovered first. (I have something of the sense
that the simplicity of the ideas is lost on future generations after rounds of
pedagogical telephone games.) But on the other hand, I’d seen lots of different
sources that pointed to the need for a new kind of mathematical thinking in
large systems with strong coupling between parts (i.e. the hardest ™ problems).
Naturally I brought up cellular automata, a throwback to when Winnie and I had
found we’d both read “A New Kind of Science” by Stephen Wolfram, the inventor
of Mathematica, nearly four years ago. I was surprised how much I remembered
from that reading. Remembering the quote on Winnie’s dorm door from Gerard
t’Hooft, the Nobel-prize-winning theorist who had given a talk at the UW a
while ago, I recalled a long paper t’Hooft had written on the potential to
formulate quantum mechanics in terms of cellular automata (unfortunately one of
those ruled-out local hidden variable theories). We talked about that for a
while. The sun was actually pleasant (boy, I’m gonna freeze when I get back).
We sat on the warm stones drinking green milk tea from little milk cartons and
crunching on rice crisps.
We got up excitedly talking (maybe we’ll make a little
journal club!) and took some pictures by the arches. Then we set out across the
vast square towards the memorial hall. At this point, we really felt the baking
oppression of the hot sun. We goofed off on our way across the square, taking
selfies. Finally we arrived at the monument, a huge marble structure with
beautifully ornamented roofs. The changing of the guard (over the statue of the
enthroned general/statesman) was just beginning. We watched the whole
ceremony—the marching, slapping guns against the floor, yelling salute. The
synchrony between the guards was quite impressive. There was no music and no
conductor and no glancing to the sides. At the end, a dude came over and wiped
the statue-like guard’s face with a handkerchief while the man stared straight
ahead impassively.
We took a few minutes to stare up at the beautiful wood
ceiling above and admire the statue. Then we walked back across the baking hot
plaza, this time with an umbrella. We checked out some breakdancers outside by
the theater, drank some weird “apple milk” from a vending machine, and got back
on the metro.
We got off near Winnie’s grandma’s house and stopped for
some fried chicken and bubble tea at street stands. AHHH the fried chicken!! It
was probably the best fried chicken I’ve ever had. It was very much like the
Taiwanese popcorn chicken at Oasis on the Ave, but piping, piping hot
(everything is served piping hot here) and with the most delicious spice mix on
the breading. It also helped that the hot, spicy chicken went perfectly with
our black tea ice cream float :D
We got to Winnie’s grandma’s apartment and waited in the air
conditioned office. Some of Winnie’s aunts brought in some more sweet drinks
and these incredible, also piping hot pastries which are basically sesame bagel
dough wrapped around a peppery meat pie filling. We ate those contentedly and
continued the conversation from earlier. Winnie’s uncle brought me a gift (!),
a quite expensive looking pottery mug in the Tang three-color style.
Winnie really wanted to take a nap so I tried to do the same
in the spacious living room, but I couldn’t. Ended up reading more Way of Kings. Watched a little bit of
TV, which looked basically like American TV, i.e., blecch! After a long nap on
Winnie’s part, we ate noodles in peanut sauce and fried rice at the enormous
round table :D I heard a bit more of the story of Winnie’s parents and them
moving back and forth. Winnie’s dad moved to the states for college, then back
to Taiwan at his dad’s wish to work, then to Canada for Winnie and JJ’s
education (where he at first had to commute to the States without a work visa),
then back to Taiwan to care for his parents. Truly a man dedicated to his
family!
On the way back home, Winnie and I worked on a proof that
the ratio of successive Fibonacci terms approached the golden ratio. (Earlier
I’d remembered an old interpretation of Fibonacci growth in terms of interest
with delayed reinvestment, which gave some fun context.) We picked up some
chicken, and it was as I bit into that delicious chicken that I came up with
the final piece for the proof.
We arrived home. It was our last evening together. Winnie
and me goofed off, finished our weird Miyazaki movie, looked at Winnie’s baby
pics, packed up my stuff. It was pretty late when we decided to hit the hay.
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